Beretta eell clasic surface rust

[Xdavycx]

Hi, I have bought a eell classic 12g. However iv used it twice in the rain and it is a bitch to keep it water ingress free. I have a eell 20g which was manufactured in 1998 and is mint.
I have returned the gun to the gun dealer and complained regarding the surface rust, in turn they returned it to gmk who cleaned it foc.
I have had the 20g from new and the 12g was bought new in the last 6month. How can the 20g not suffer surface rust and the 12g be so much of a pain to keep clean. I use Legia spray on both guns every time the guns are used.
Any one else had this problem.????? If so what is the solution.
Regards Davy

[shotgun sam]

Welcome to the forum

Sam

[flintlok]

I had similar issues with black powder guns. I could keep the exposed surface metal well oiled however the area of the barrel that lay with the stock channel would rust. I made of concoction of bees wax and gum turpentine (the natural kind). Bees wax will dissolve in turpentine. I lined the barrel channel wood with the paste and the under side of the barrel. That worked like a top. For exposed metal surfaces, it’s hard to beat food grade aluminum soap type greases for water resistance. Water can displace oils and greases, even lithium base grease, but it doesn’t displace aluminum complex soap greases. I use that type of grease to lube the mechanism of my crank out windows that are routinely expose the weather. It’s only necessary to grease the window mechanism every two years or so. I tried every thing prior to that and at best I would get a month or so of adequate performance.

I’ve pretty much have stopped using beeswax and now I prefer the aluminum complexed soap grease. One key thing about that type of grease is it adheres big to metal. I just wipe it on and wipe it off. It will leave a microscopic film.

Here’s a link that discusses grease that may be helful.

http://synmaxperformancelubricants.com/ ... n.pdf?vm=r

[flintlok]

Also I would be remiss to mention that you should wash the barrels with soap (dish detergent will do fine) and hot water ( the hotter the better). The soap is ecessary to lower the surface tension of the water so it will better wet the surfaces. The reason it's sometimes necessary is that some salts are not super soluable in cold water, potassium chloride notably, and there are others. Hot water will open the pores in the metal and cause the salt to release easier as well as better dissolve the residual salts. Acid rain is also a issue. The acid content of the rain is near that if vinegar (pH 4.something or other) and that does not help bluing at all. I tend to use a bit of ammonia also with my hot water solutions as it tend to neutalize acid salts and the ammonia will cut through old oils and grease. Once the barrels are clean, that the time to apply the grease or you lubricant of your choice. At least, make sure that it a gun oil and never, ever, WD 40 that gums and will volatilize away. I one made the mistake of using a machinist oil (Starrett) and God did that crap ever rust the bore non chromed of one of my AR 15's. It had to have either a high chloride concentration or a high acid number. No matter it was junk and cost me $600 dollars to replace the barrel. Alway use a gun oil designed for guns.

I'm always concocting solutions at work that eat the crap out of the mechanics tool. I gave you the same advice I give to them and it works. I have a ammonium salts/ammonia copper etch solution that if not rinsed off properly does a great job eating chome vanadium tool steel. Hot water works every time to remove the salts, cold water never does.

[Beer Hunter]

The gun will only be rusting because it is wet when you put it away or your safe is damp. There is no other physically possible way for it to rust
Some guns are more prone than others, but H2O is still your problem.

Make sure it is properly dry before oiling. Legia is good stuff and pretty much the only protective oil I've used for a decade or so.

Kev.

[fireman-andy]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-Pack-Por ... 3221872%26

My cabinets are on an outside wall in an old solid stone wall cottage and I was getting the same issues. I bought some of these and it has helped. Plug them in overnight to dry them out and place in the cabinet , this does need doing every few days which is a bit of a pain but they do help. The other thing I have done is placed silica gel sachets (from shoe boxes , scope boxes etc ) into the cabinet. Finally I use VP90 spray which has a rust inhibitor in it.

Hope this helps

Andy