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Marlin Model 80 (JC Higgin Model 103.228) Barrel Removal

Rimfire, centerfire or black powder related topics

Marlin Model 80 (JC Higgin Model 103.228) Barrel Removal

Postby flintlok » Mon Jan 20, 2020 5:28 pm

My weekend project.....

Marlin Model 80 (JC Higgin Model 103.228) Barrel Removal

I have a JC Higgin Model 103.228 (Marlin Model 80) that can shoot.22 S-L-LR. The rifle is provided with a cartridge guide spring that looks similar to a writing pen pocket clip that protrudes from the top of the barrel chamber. Its function is to prevent the cartridge from overshooting the chamber to direct the cartridge into the chamber. There is a slot cut into the top of the bolt to accommodate the cartridge guide spring. The bolt is a two piece affair. The bolt head turns independently of the bolt body. The bolt head/face is regulated by the ejector. The ejector is a spring the attaches to the underside of the receiver and look like a paper clip that been bent to purpose. It is possible to lose the ejector if the rifle is disassembled completely. With a missing ejector the bolt head/face which is a separate piece from the bolt body can improperly orientate such that it sill slam against and break or irrevocably bend the cartridge guide spring at the top of the chamber. When this happens the rifle can and will usually routinely misfeed even with the ejector installed. The only way to fix the issue is to remove the barrel and install a new cartridge guide spring. New cartridge guide springs are available from Gun Parts Corporation https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/402880B

The barrel is pressed fit into the receiver. The barrel also it locked into the receiver with a tapered pin driven through the bottom of the barrel and receiver joint. To remove the barrel it is necessary to drive the taper pin out. The narrow part of the pin is located on the left side of the receiver looking from the rifle butt end of the gun. It is necessary to drive the pin from the left to the right side of the receiver. It’s a tight fit and it takes a couple of raps of a drift and hammer to move the pin out. The taper pin is soft steel so it will likely be damaged as it’s drifted out. Once the pin is removed it a matter of driving the barrel out of the receiver with a larger drift and hammer. There are loads of ways to do this. I used a small drift punch and hammer to remove the tapered pin and a plastic V block to rest the receiver on. To remove the barrel I used a 12 in section of 3/8’s diameter brass rod and a hammer. The receiver is oversize of the barrel by 3/16ths of an inch or so. I placed receiver barrel/assembly in a soft aluminum plates in my bench vice such that they the engaged the receiver but loose clamped onto the barrel and I drove the barrel out. It’s a tight barrel receiver fit but the barrel did come out. It pays to score or mark the barrel and receiver joint before the final removal to have an index point when the barrel is place back into position. Once the barrel is out the damaged guide spring can be removed from its slot on the top of the barrel and a new one inserted. That’s the easy part. The barrel can be orientated and reinserted back into the receiver. The barrel is provided with a collar that stops it when the proper head space is met. All I did to reinsert the barrel was drop the back end of receiver and barrel assembly onto a soft wood block. The barrel’s weight sank barrel into the receiver. The final rub was the tapered pin. It’s impossible to get a perfect alignment with the existing taper pin hole. I found it necessary to the cut a new taper hole. The correct taper pin is a 2/0 taper pin and a 2/0 taper pin reamer is needed. These can be found on Amazon. The reamer is meant to be used with a T wrench as for a tap and die set is hand turned only. You can find the pin and reamer typically at the site below.

Reamer:
https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Qu ... ial&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-55 ... ial&sr=1-1

The taper stock length is one inch so the pin will have be cut to size around ¾ inch long. With a little work and a bolt body polish with a bit of grinding compound you can have a viable smooth operating bolt action 22 rimfire rifle for about $120 or so in the US. They make nice little shooters for beginners.
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